I liked Ubud even though it’s in full-on tourist mode with homestays, spas, eateries and shops selling tourist tat. You can avoid the main streets and wander down the side streets which are lanes really. Here you’ll see the rural life with rice paddies and ducks. Though this may be short-lived as people want more of the tourist dollar and build on their land.
Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA)
I loved the energy in this place and wandering round the peaceful gardens and buildings that house Bali’s traditional and contemporary art.
The grounds are lovely and I could’ve easily hung out in the Warung Kopi for the afternoon.
The few main roads are insanely busy with tourists, the market, roadworks and locals. Every fourth building is a tourist shop selling sarongs, wooden penises of all sizes, silver jewellery, parasols and much more.
First night in Bali I stayed at Rhuma Roda in a room with a spacious balcony.
I spent two nights before I left at Semu Jaen which has very nice new rooms and a refreshing pool. I’d phoned Darta for a room at Rhuma Roda and when I arrived there, got taken by scooter to his brother’s place. The restaurant has a nice ambiance and does a great breakfast and dinner.